Runway
Saint Laurent's Fall/Winter 2026 Show Was a Study in Tuxedos and Waxed Lace
Anthony Vaccarello continued exploring the tension between masculine tailoring and sheer sensuality in a moody evening presentation

Anthony Vaccarello's Fall/Winter 2026 show for Saint Laurent, staged as a moody evening event during Paris Fashion Week, continued the creative director's long-running examination of the tension between rigid masculine tailoring and delicate sensuality.
The tuxedo remained the collection's central reference point, reworked across the show in various guises, before being contrasted against innovative uses of waxed lace to create the season's most distinctive sheer garments. The "naked dressing" aesthetic that defined much of Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026 found one of its most polished expressions here, with Saint Laurent's body-focused silhouettes reading as sensual rather than simply revealing — a distinction critics noted set the house apart from other interpretations of the same trend that season.
Saint Laurent's evening slot in the schedule, alongside Dior on the same day, has become one of the week's defining rhythms in recent seasons, with Vaccarello's atmospheric, nightclub-adjacent staging offering a deliberate tonal counterpoint to Dior's daylight garden setting earlier that afternoon. It's a pairing that, season after season, continues to define the emotional range of a single day in Paris.
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About the author
Anaelle Lise
Fashion editor and writer covering design, image-making and the creative networks connecting Southeast Asia.





